SAILING SUDAN
When cruising sailors visit Sudan, they all stop at Suakin.
This modest port is a much better stopover than Port Sudan which
is the main commercial port in the country. Suakin has a
large well protected harbor with good holding in relatively
shallow water. You could sit out a real blow in this harbor
without much risk of dragging anchor.
The ruins of old Suakin occupy a small peninsula north of the
anchorage. This town was reputed to be the last place in the
Red Sea where there was an active slave market. On a more
positive note, the town is unique because its white
buildings were constructed out of coral.
The fisherman of Suakin sail in traditional wooden craft with and
without engines. Fishing vessels have a centrally located
icebox that they fill with block ice before heading out to sea.
Then they ply the waters of Sudan for a week before they return
with their catch.
Suakin is an easy port of entry because a self-appointed agent
named Mohammad handles all of your paperwork. You give him
your documents and some cash, and he completes the formalities of
entering and leaving the country. He also arranges for
delivery of potable water and assists in transporting groceries to
your boat. He is a man of many talents, and a gentleman at
that.
While anchored in Suakin, we took the local bus to Port Sudan
which is thirty miles to the north. Port Sudan had a middle
eastern flavor with small shops selling the necessities of life.
It was tempting to shoot photos, but we were warned that open
photography could result in confiscation of our camera or even a
trip to jail.
Suakin was a pleasant break on the trip up the Red Sea.
Although it wasn't fancy, the people were very friendly, and it
was safe and fun.
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